“She surfs like a girl” is an ignorant statement.
“Now that I have grown into a woman, I have come to realize that I want to ride waves like a woman should.”
“You need to surf against the boys,” everyone told me. And I did. And doing so made a positive difference in some aspects, although I lost touch of how to “properly” use my hips.
Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Bing Crosby’s iconic song “Style” is a tune that I feel every surfer or individual should have a listen to—better yet, read the lyrics. There is truly something to be said for how you carry yourself throughout this walk of life, whether you are striding down a boulevard or flowing downwards on a movement of water. I always loved the pride and dapper the boys portrayed in Endless Summer—the haircuts, the suits, the wayfarers, and the longboards, how luxe. It seems to be making a comeback in these current times. But history always has a way of repeating itself…
As I sat out the back on this beautiful single fin that was created for a very stylish human by the name of Donovan Frankenreiter, a feeling of grace came over me and I thought: this is my second to last wave, I’m going to allow myself to let go, breathe deep and just “be” a beautiful woman.
For once, I have the chance to explore different feelings and emotions throughout my wave riding. I was bred into a competitive machine for a long period of time. It was all about gaining that extra .75 from floating the whitewater after you completed your last turn, sitting on the girl wearing blue that had the capability of earning that 8 to knock you out, feeling superstitious in what shirt you wore to the bed the night before thinking that would be the make or break in your result the next day.
All of that was never what surfing is about for me. That was never what made me happy to be a surfer. That was never what made me want to go surfing. I wanted to laugh, smile, have fun and look damn good while doing it.
Now I am here enjoying the lifestyle.
Now I am here riding my second to last wave, admiring the sky as the angels have just come out to paint it and place the clouds in a way that when the sun shines through it adorns a pink hue on my sun kissed skin.
Now I am here, trying my best to be an amazing, exquisite woman.
Now I am here, abiding by my personal criteria :
“May the lady that has the most heartfelt fun riding a wave, executing every elegant movement with style and grace, be deemed victorious.”